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Bulb Planting

Preparing the Soil

Most bulbs adapt to many types of soil, but nearly all prefer a loose, porous soil structure. With only a few exceptions, such as Siberian irises, which tolerate swampy conditions-bulbs must have good drainage.

Before planting, prepare the soil so that the roots can move through it easily and water can drain quickly. Installing drain lines to carry away excess water in both heavy clay soils and extremely sandy soils can be improved by adding an organic amendment, such as compost, humus, ground and composed bark, or peat moss. In heavier soils, organic material separates the soil particles, letting water and air move more easily through the soil. Organic matter incorporated into sandy soil acts like a sponge, holding more moisture and nutrients for the plants.

Organic matter will improve almost any soil. After turning the soil, add the amendment you select by spreading it over the surface of the area you intend to plant. Spread the amendment at least 1 inch - but not more than 4 inches deep, and work it into the soil to a 12-16" depth.

Fertilizer

When you plant, mix some bone meal or superphosphate into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole. Phosphorus, supplied by both of these fertilizers, must be present deep in the soil, where the bulb roots are located. Phosphorus does not move readily through the soil as other plant nutrients do so it must be placed at a depth where the roots can reach it.

Fertilize again when foliage begins to emerge, usually in the spring. Spread a fertilizer containing nitrogen and potash on the ground around the plants and wash it into the soil with a thorough irrigation. The fertilizer label will tell you how much to use.

For summer and fall-blooming bulbs that need fertilizing, apply half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the label every month until the foliage begins to yellow. If the bulb is evergreen, continue the feeding program until fall; then begin again when growth resumes in spring.

Some bulbs, such as Naked Lady's and clochicum, bloom after the foliage has died. Feed them only when they are in leaf, not when they are blooming.

Planting

Most bulbs are planted at a depth that is equal to three times their diameter. When you plant several bulbs close together, it is easier to dig up the entire area to the proper depth, set the bulbs in the hole, and cover. When planting smaller numbers, and especially in crowded areas among other plants, dig individual holes with bulb or trowel. Place the bulb in the hole point up, cover with soil, and firm the soil slightly with your hands. Place the bulb in point up, cover it with soil, and firm the soil slightly with your hands.

Bulb planting tools save time and effort. A long-handled version is also sold.

Watering

To do the greatest good, ample water must be deep water. For example: A daffodil bulb planted 6 inches deep will send its roots down at least another 6 inches. If water is to benefit the roots, it must penetrate the soil about 12 inches to reach them in the case of daffodils. A casual sprinkling obviously will not suffice.

Unless the ground is rain soaked, water thoroughly after planting bulbs. Winter or spring rains usually provide the rest of the moisture needed until the bulbs sprout. If you live in a climate with dry periods during the winter, you may need to water. Don't let the soil dry out.

When the plants are a few inches tall, begin watering to keep them evenly moist throughout the growing and blooming periods. Bulb roots grow deep, water should be thorough, not just a surface sprinkling. The amount of water, of course, depends on the weather and the rate of growth. Bulbs need regular watering during active growth, which includes the periods of root development before sprouting starts. Continue to water after the flowers fade, until foliage turns yellow.

Maintaining Planted Areas

Although it's not good for all bulbs in all seasons, mulching with organic material helps the bulbs in several important ways. It discourages weeds and insulates against cold and helps prevent damage caused by alternating freezing and thawing of the ground and by late frosts.

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